Korona Second Tower: western route, 2A

Route grading

2A From the classifier

Grade applies to this exact named line. Technical rock scales are kept in their original system and are not converted to a Russian alpine category.

Preparation

• Glacier travel in a rope team, secure crampon technique, belaying and controlled descent. Agree helmet, harness, rope, crampons, ice axe and glacier-rescue equipment with the leader; grade 2A does not mean an unroped walking route.

Grade sources: alpfederation.ru

Grade meanings, skills and equipment ↗

ROUTE OVERVIEW

At a glance

The mountain and the exact route

Korona is a multi-towered mountain above the Ak-Sai basin in Ala-Archa. This entry concerns the Second Tower, listed at 4,750 m in the classifier, and its western route. It is distinct from the Third Tower itinerary already in the catalogue and from the harder north-facing lines. The photograph shows the Korona massif, not a marked climbing topo for the Second Tower.

Approach, ascent and return

Use Ratsek Hut as the lower organising base and agree the glacier approach and high bivouac with the climbing leader. Identify the correct tower from several viewpoints before moving onto the ascent. A route called western in a classifier does not establish a safe approach across the glacier on your travel date. Plan the descent, rope-team spacing and turnaround time before leaving camp.

Planning the attempt

Before committing, agree a turnaround time, check-in procedure and the conditions that will cancel the climb. Keep reserve time outside the advertised summit day. Download an offline topographic map, but do not interpret the catalogue’s orientation points as a surveyed climbing line. This is an expedition-planning overview; the climbing topo and current local assessment remain essential.

Preparation and equipment

Glacier travel in a rope team, secure crampon technique, belaying and controlled descent. Agree helmet, harness, rope, crampons, ice axe and glacier-rescue equipment with the leader; grade 2A does not mean an unroped walking route.

Track length: Not available. This distance covers the track shown on the map. Add any approach, return or transfer sections that are outside it.

Is this route for you?

Choose the route after checking the actual start, finish and terrain with a local guide. Mapped geometry alone does not establish technical difficulty. Your group should be comfortable navigating offline and changing plans when conditions deteriorate.

With children

Not available

Dogs

Check local rules

Bicycles and pushchairs

Not available

Phone coverage

Do not rely on it

What is nearby?

Chuy / Ala-Archa, Ak-Sai

Getting there

Arrange the approach, camp arrangements and any required access documents with a local organiser. The map marks orientation points only; no verified GPX for this exact ascent is supplied.

What you will find along the way

Korona Second Tower: western route, 2A

1. Ratsek Hut 42.5350, 74.5288

Difficult sections & safety

High alpine glacier approach and mixed summit terrain. Altitude, weather changes, falling material and a difficult retreat must be assessed for the exact line.

How much time to allow

Approach and acclimatisation, then a separately planned summit day

When to go

Alpine season and snow conditions must be checked with the camp

What to bring

• Trail shoes or boots with good grip; layers, sun protection and waterproofs.
• Drinking water, food, a first-aid kit and a headlamp.
• An offline map, downloaded GPX, a charged phone and a power bank.
• An agreed return plan, local contact and a realistic fallback route.

GOOD QUESTIONS

Before you set out

Photo gallery

A regional landscape for context; it does not identify every section of the track.

1 photos · select to enlarge

Photographs show named places on this itinerary; they do not document the exact GPX recording.

Photo credits & licences

Photo: Vladimir A. Komissarov / Владимир А. Комиссаров · Copyright retained; published climbing guide photograph · Source · License

Current trail conditions

There are no published condition reports for this route yet.

Discussion

Start a conversation about the route, preparation or your experience. Comments are moderated.